WINE ENTHUSIAST


May 2006 Issue

 

94

2004 Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir: Abbott Claim Vineyard, Willamette Valley - $50

Strikingly original, with subtle flavors of citrus, juniper, pine needle, dried herbs and mint. Harvested at less than one ton an acre, this distinctive, compelling wine is built around tart cranberry fruit. Long, penetrating and persistent. — P.G. (5/1/2006)

 

93

2004 Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir: Freedom Hill Vineyard, Willamette Valley - $50

The Freedom Hill is the biggest of all the Ken Wright Pinots, except possibly the Shea. Tannic and leathery, this has a distinct streak of coffee grounds running all through it. Gutsy and potentially the longest lived. — P.G. (5/1/2006)

 

92

2004 Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir: Guadalupe Vineyard, Willamette Valley - $50

Full, rich and big, with cherries and plums, buttered nuts and vanilla. It’s ripe and varietal, beautifully structured and compared with previous vintages, reined in just a bit. — P.G. (5/1/2006)

 

92

2004 Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Blanc: Freedom Hill Vineyard - $25

Editor's Choice

Rarely does Pinot Blanc generate much excitement in the U.S., but this fragrant, beguiling mix of pears, apples and white peaches, laced with floral scents and finished with leesy creaminess, is a gem. Excellent concentration and length, along with some noticeable residual sugar—just right for spicy Asian food or pork loin with fruit sauce. — P.G. (5/1/2006)

 

91

2004 Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir: Carter Vineyard, Willamette Valley - $50

The Carter has an appealing softness in the mouth; it’s almost airy, but not thin or dull in any way. Cranberry/cherry fruit seems to float above pillowy tannins, with just a bare hint of mint in the finish. Light and delicate. — P.G. (5/1/2006)

 

91

2004 Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir: Savoya Vineyard, Willamette Valley - $50

From a Ken Wright-owned vineyard, the Savoya is a lighter style, sprinkled with fresh whiffs of basil, thyme and rosemary, and hints of pine needle. An elegant, almost delicate, wine. — P.G. (5/1/2006)

 

90

2004 Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir: Nysa Vineyard, Willamette Valley - $50

Pretty, spicy scents of berry and cranberry mix with sweet plum on the palate. Lovely, aromatic and sweet, this young wine needs a little more time than its stable mates; it’s still a bit yeasty and tight. But very nicely made and balanced. — P.G. (5/1/2006)

 

90

2004 Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir: Canary Hill Vineyard, Willamette Valley - $50

Forward, tart and spicy, the Canary Hill’s tangy red fruit is lifted with light citrus—lime and grapefruit. Nicely balanced and moderate in length. — P.G. (5/1/2006)

 

90

2004 Ken Wright Cellars Chadonnay: Celilo Vineyard, Washington - $25

Ken Wright is one of more than a dozen winemakers sourcing fruit from this exceptional vineyard. These 30-year-old Chardonnay vines are some of the oldest in the Northwest. Here they display substantial lime and citrus flavors, whiffs of honeysuckle and clover, light peach and some buttery richness in the finish. — P.G. (5/1/2006)

 

89

2004 Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir: McCrone Vineyard, Willamette Valley - $50

Lovely nose, scented with violets, sweet candy and rose petals. The flavors balance citrus oil, pineapple, pomegranate and red cherries, detailed and nicely balanced. But there is a note of plastic or Band-aid that creeps into the finish; otherwise this would be rated significantly higher. — P.G. (5/1/2006)